Eating Out in France

When guiding my guests around, I often get asked about eating out in France. Mainly because they went to a restaurant and were told either they weren’t serving. Or there were no tables available, even when they could see plenty of empty ones. And even that they simply weren’t open most nights.

Add in the specific hours that restaurants are open, and it can be a minefield of misunderstanding that leaves people confused, frustrated and especially hungry. So let’s see if I can add some insight, and give some information that might help with when, how and a little bit of why.

Caveat – this does not include the centre of Paris. Like most big cities that welcome tourists, they have restaurants that serve all day, every day, any hour. Restaurants catering to tourists, including French tourists, will keep different hours, offer more evenings and even more seatings than their more rural, local counterparts. But outside of Paris, and other big touristic cities, you have to switch your cultural mind to the locals way of life.

Focus on Lunch

First and foremost, when eating out, lunch is the predominant meal. Not dinner, excepting sometimes Friday and Saturdays. In fact, when in the countryside, villages and even small towns that aren’t touristy, anticipate that there may be no place to eat out in at night, even Friday and Saturday.

Monday through Saturday almost all eateries will be open to serve you lunch, from 12 – 2pm. And what this really means is do not expect to be served after 1pm. And if you don’t have a reservation you need to show up at 12 or earlier to try to get a table. It really can be that specific.

Only 1 Seating

I have had quite a few guests comment on this. Including that they arrive at the restaurant and are told that they can’t seat them, even though they can see many empty seats. That’s because there is generally only one seating. In other words, there is no intent to move you along so they can offer another person the table after you. And those tables are reserved. If a table is available, you will be offered it. Except…

Lunches are typically at least 1 hour to 1 ½ long. Usually involving a number of courses (more on this below). So if you come looking for lunch after 1pm, you generally won’t be seated as it’s considered not enough time to sit and enjoy the meal. Culturally, the meal is meant to be savoured and eaten slowly.

At Night?

The same holds true for evening meals, excepting we have sometimes a little more leeway on the time. But typically look to 7 – 9pm as your window of gastronomic opportunity. A good majority of the restaurants, bistros and cafes will not serve dinner Sunday through Wednesday, if they serve dinner at all.

Hotels are an exception, even outside tourist areas, catering to guests most nights if they have a restaurant. Though I do recommend booking a meal when you make a reservation so they know you will wish to eat, specially during low/non-touristy seasons. Because there is a lack of evening eateries, I find booking a hotel that has a restaurant (and do check if the restaurant is closed some nights in their hours) makes evenings much easier.

Eating out at Lunch

The predominance of eateries are going to serve the Plat du Jour, their special of the day, on weekdays (lunch time only). This is a complete meal on a plate, historically and still designed for workers. The Plat du Jour is fresh and different every day, and very good value. It is the usual go to for everyone eating at the place. Sometimes a couple, even possibly three, choices are given for the main dish.

For vegetarians, the plat du jour choices rarely include a plant based dish. However, there is sometimes a full menu, or carte. You may have heard it as the term ‘a la carte’. This is a typical style menu that offers different dishes, entree, main and desserts, at individual prices. Not as good value, usually by a long shot, but if you are vegetarian/vegan or have food issues, this may be where you need to look. (Here is more on being a Vegetarian in France.)

La Formule

The Plat du Jour, or simply plat, is often wrapped up in additional courses, called a ‘formule’ or ‘menu’. Think menu of the day. This will be a set price. Typically these days that’s around 15 – 25 €. Though saying that it can be much less. The bistro in my village offers it’s plat du jour at 10€, with add-on courses at 13€ for 2 and 15€ for 3.

The added courses are the bookends to the main dish. They are the ‘Entrée’ or starter and dessert. Sometimes there is a fourth course, in the more fancy establishments, of cheese – before the dessert. And sometimes a cheese plate can be a dessert option, for those of a less sweet disposition.

For those of a salad persuasion, this might be a choice for the entree, but also easily could be the main Plat du Jour, especially in summer. This will be no simple small salad, but will be a full plate, generally with meat as part of it. Think Salade Niçoise (with tuna, potatoes, eggs, olives…) or the Salade Parisienne (with its ham, cheese, eggs…).

Eating out at Dinner

As mentioned eating out at dinner can be a tad more tricky. Your hotel is a good option, and also ask them to recommend places that are open, and better yet book for you for other nights. Generally Friday and Saturday night you will easily find something open. In the bigger cities, you can simply show up (best done at 7pm), but don’t expect for them to take you without a reservation. A good majority of the restaurants now take bookings online, so be certain to check their website. (Note to Americans – the date is written different in Europe, with day first, then month, then year. Important when specifying the day for your reservation.)

If you are lucky enough to have a self-catering place (a place with a kitchen) or your hotel room has a lovely terrace, consider having a French PiqueNique (picnic) as your dinner. They invented the concept and it still is very much a done thing today. With lunch being a larger meal, often dinner, especially at the end of a long working day, is much simpler. Salad or soup, depending on the temperature, charcuterie or simply a few cheeses.

How to PiqueNique

Most good sized towns will have an Epicerie. A version of a delicatessen, but with more. Here you can often buy all you need for a light evening meal, or even a lunch if preferred. Saucisson sec (dried sausage) in a variety of flavours, an array of cheeses, pates, terrines and even wine. The only thing you may not find is bread, but you will find toasts – small pieces of already toasted bread to heap your nibbles on.

If you wish bread, or maybe even a quiche, sandwich or salad, head to the local Boulangerie (bakery). A boulangerie is the staple and heart of any village. It will offer you a further selection of choices for your picnic (and sometimes coffee or soft drinks instead of wine). The bigger the Boulangerie, the more choices. Some even have freshly made pizza nights. Both Epicerie and Boulangerie are usually open until 7pm, though sometimes closed Sunday afternoon and Monday or another afternoon. And lunch time. Hours are posted on the door.

You can enjoy your picnic at your accommodation, or take it to a local park, or even on the train. And yes, you can drink wine in these places too. It’s a very simple remedy against over-indulging in French food. And having picnic supplies to hand means you will not be caught out, especially in the evenings, if you are not able to find a place to eat or prefer to eat at a time outside of ‘French time‘.

Little Nuances

When ordering, particularly at lunch, it is typical to order your entrée and plat at the beginning. Dessert can be a decision for after you have eaten and have more idea of how hungry you still are. Food courses are all about how hungry you are. Very hungry, go for all three. Not so much, just take the Plat du Jour. It is perfectly acceptable when dining with others for someone to have all three courses, whilst another may have only one or two. This is true of dinner, too.

France is not a wasteful country, so it is important to try to finish what’s on your plate. It’s against the law in fact to throw out or waste too much food. Since 2016 supermarkets etc are not allowed to throw away food, and now this has been extended to restaurants since 2023. They have to be mindful of their food biowaste. But irrespective, waste in France is frowned upon so don’t order more than you can eat. (Not liking something is very different though.)