Harvesting champagne currants at PumpjackPiddlewick

Recently I wrote about cherries. We are still awash with cherries, as the tree of our neighbour on the other side of us is almost buried under them. So I am still carrying on making cherry things. But in the background. As currently it is all about currants, and specifically Champagne currants.

I had heard of red currants, and of course red currant jelly*. A very British thing, usually served with pork. Like having cranberries with turkey if you are in the US. And like cranberries, it is a bitter sweet fruit, that adds a lovely tang to the meat.

When we moved to France, the garden we took care of at the Chateau had both red currants and black currants. The black currants have such a fantastic scent, and are slightly sweeter. And if you are familiar with cassis (a sweet syrup) it is made from these.

Cassis syrup can be made with or without alcohol. The latter is often used and particularly delicious in white wine or Champagne, otherwise known as a Kir if you find yourself in a bar here in France, or a Kir Royal if Champagne is used.

Both versions of Cassis are quite easy to make, too. It’s Simply fruit, sugar and water. Brandy instead of water for the alcoholic version (and you don’t need to use the good stuff.)

If you prefer a metric recipe: 500 grams fruit to 300 ml water and 300 grams sugar (give or take depending how sweet you like it. (Not metric recipe inclined: 3 pounds fruit, 3 cups water and 3 cups sugar). If doing the brandy version recipe, you use more brandy than water and a little less sugar (due to the sweetness already present in brandy, particularly cheaper brandies.) In all of these, you simply boil, mash the fruit, sieve and store (Follow the respective links here for the preferred, more detailed, recipe.)

As you can tell I am not an ‘exact’cook. I used to be, but Pumpjack influenced me to spread my wings and be a little more experimental. As I love recipes from around the world, we often don’t have all the exact ingredients in our cupboard. So substitution regularly happens, and we have had some amazingly delicious discoveries in consequence. Give it a whirl. I really recommend it.

Now back to current day and currants. Our restoration garden came with an already in place veg / fruit garden. Around its edge was the perennial fruit and nuts (except we have yet to have a nut from there). In place were red currants and Champagne currants.

I had never heard of, let alone seen, Champagne currants. And honestly, I have to say, ‘Why had I not heard of these!?!’ They are delicious! Better, I think, than black and red. Unlike the other two, these can actually be eaten straight off the bush. Yes, they are still a little tart, but have much more natural sweetness than the other two.

Red currants are the little ones. Black currants are the plump ones. But Champagne currants are the biggest of all. And a gorgeous cream colour with a rose blush. I am guessing it is the colour that gave them their name.

Our first summer here we had a great harvest from these shrubs, particularly the Champagne one. Sadly last year (too dry?) was more or less a wash out. Luckily though I had made enough currant jelly to last through that year. But it ran out this winter, so boy am I glad that this year has been another bountiful harvest.

As before, the Champagne currants far outweighed the red ones. (But then I think the crows nesting in our pine tree might be drawn to the red of the red berries. Though I have yet to see any bird eating them.) So rather than try to make two types of jelly, I simply mixed the two.

Currants have lots of natural pectin, so it’s a natural to make into a preserve. My go to recipe for currant jelly is super, super easy. And you don’t even have to de-stem the berries!

Wash, drain and then weigh your berries. Whatever weight they are, you then need half that weight in sugar. Put the berries in a heavy bottom saucepan (stocks and all. Okay, maybe no leaves). Bring to a boil. Whilst boiling take a potato masher and mash the berries to release their juices. Boil for 10 minutes.

Now add the sugar. Once dissolved, boil for 8 minutes. Remove from the stove top. Put a sieve over a bowl. Use a fine mesh sieve, or if you don’t have one, line with cheese cloth or similar. Pour the currant jelly into the sieve and let the juice go through to the bowl. Push the remaining juice through with a spoon. Compost the left over mash. Sterlised jam jars at the ready, add your juice to the jars. Et Voila!

Mine does end up a bit more liquidy (is that a word?) than say jelly or jam like, but that is because I prefer it less sweet, so don’t add enough sugar to help it solidify. If you prefer it more solid, and more sweet, add more sugar.

Now what to do with your bounty? This jelly is perfect for cooking with. Think sweet and sour all in one container. A recipe calls for honey, try adding this jelly instead. Or it calls for vinegar, ditto. Or even barbecue sauce, try swapping this in.

My favourite is pork chops. I spread this jelly and mustard on a pork chop and sauté. Toss in some chopped mushrooms and walnuts, and you have a simple and absolutely delicious dish. (For vegetarians, try this with a veggie burger instead.)

Both our currant shrubs had a good prune this year. I think our red currant bush is quite old. It certainly was straggly, with lots of dead wood. It still isn’t a hundred percent back to full growth, but hopefully with more care it will find itself in direct competition with our Champagne shrub for production.

I had planted a black currant shrub up by the duck enclosure our first summer here, but sadly it appears not to be the best place for it. It sent out about 2 green leaves this year, which something ate. The plan is to transplant down into the veg garden, to be with the other currant bushes, this autumn.

We didn’t have the space for it before, but as our hazelnut bush is not providing results, and way too much shade, it’s a question of one replacing the other. We shall see how that goes.

In harvesting our currants this year, I had a lot of help from Gabby, our new pet duck. Turns out she too is a fan of Champagne currants in particular.

PS*

We are affiliated with AmazonUK, so as they sell red currant jelly (though sadly not Champagne current jelly), I figured I would link some in this write up, in case you have never tried it and wish to. You could of course also have a look in your own shops or, better yet, harvest or buy some currants and make your own.

If you would like to read more about our Affiliates, visit our Nourishing Pumpjack & Piddlewick page.

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